桂花糖年糕
年糕是江南人家寻常的美食。记得小辰光过了冬至，趁着天好，家里就要去镇上的机房去辗米粉，辗好的糯米粉有点湿，需要摊在竹簸里放太阳下晒干。那时也放寒假了，喜欢做的事是玩糯米粉，洁白的糯米粉已经干爽了，细闻闻有一股清香，一双小手沾满白白的粉儿，堆粉包，堆起来塌下去，塌下去再堆起来，乐此不疲。
过了腊月十七十八掸好檐尘，家里会请蒸糕师傅来蒸年糕。师傅自带大炉子蒸笼等诸多工具，主人家只要准备好糯米粉就行了。一般人家也不是年年蒸，但盖了新房子或是家中儿女结婚喜事，就一定会蒸糕了，蒸糕---真高，是喜庆的意思。记得那年家里盖新房，年底就蒸了好多年糕，分发给亲戚朋友。
印象里蒸年糕的师傅都是大块头，力气很大的。糯米粉中加入白糖或红糖，再加点糖桂花，拌匀倒入蒸笼里，大炉子早已烧得旺旺的，炉子上架着大铁锅，师傅双手端着蒸笼小心放炉子上，开始蒸粉。锅里发出咕都咕都的声音，热气慢慢的弥漫开来，渐渐的整个屋子里的有了浓郁的香味。。。过了一会儿，糯米粉蒸好了，成了俗称的“涨粉”，师傅一声吆喝：闪开闪开，涨粉来啦，然后一发力，从炉灶上端起大蒸笼，嘿的一声，将蒸笼倒在早已涂好食油光洁的案板了。
师傅高喊：屋里的老小呢?快点来吃涨粉!江南叫孩子为老小，于是一群馋涎欲滴的老小一起挤到案板前，师傅大手一挥，从一大团涨粉上揪下一个个粉团子，分发给老小，涨，长的意思，大人说谁涨粉吃得多谁就长得快。
记忆中涨粉很好吃，有点象松糕，又香又甜又糯。。。
分完涨粉，师傅就开始揉涨粉，正式做年糕了。这是个力气活，有点类似于北方的和面，难怪蒸糕师傅大块头的多，没一把力气还真做不好年糕呢。反复的揉，搓，掼，案板震荡得朴朴作响，团形，圆形，到后是长条形，用木铲子压平，变成象扁担那样长。再用绵线一条条的割开，一条条的摊开，后的程序是师傅用一只木章给年糕盖上一朵朵红花儿。
蒸好的年糕要放在翁头里，除夕祭祖时要放上数条，大年初一要吃圆子糕丝汤，都是团圆吉祥的意思。印象里年糕一直要吃到正月半才吃得完。
后来吃的东西日渐丰富，家家都搬了新房子，蒸糕师傅也绝迹了，街上开满了克里斯汀，85度等面包坊，提拉米苏，椰奶面包取代了类似年糕这样的老式点心，本地的数家有名的糕团店有的关门，有点也改良，做些花里胡俏的花式糕团，不知是人的味蕾麻木了还是糕团变味了，反正好多年也不吃了。。。
好象是前年了，一位朋友送来一只礼盒，里面是三十条年糕：桂花十条，赤豆十条，红糖十条，有点奇怪怎么会送这样的礼物?下班时送到母亲处，嘱她送点给众乡邻，因为据以往经验，这样的食品后都是吃不脱划脱的。
本来把这事忘记了，没想到几天后母亲急急地打来电话，说那个年糕非常好吃，和旧时自家蒸的一样，邻居们托梅再去带点来，每户十条。
嘿!真的那么好吃吗?有点后悔自已没留几条尝尝，于是打朋友电话，请他告知路线，一路赶去采买-----原来就在一个镇子上，去时年糕店的师傅正在往案板上倒热气腾腾的涨粉，童年的记忆突然涌上心头，想起那寒冷的时节，温暖的灯光下梅和弟弟牵手一起吃涨粉的回忆，心头一梗，眼泪盈眶.....
以前听人说：如果你开始怀旧了，就证明你开始老了。是老了，常在不经意间回想起儿时的情景，许多人许多事就象昨天发生的那样亲切;而后来的合作伙伴同事却很少想及。食物也是如此，渐渐厌倦了那些精美的点心，好色相原来全是添加剂调出来的，只有吻合儿时美食的那碗豆腐花呀，一小条年糕啊和舌尖喜相逢时，才胜却人间美味无数。。。
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